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El respeto al ‘terroir’ y a las tradiciones de valor añadido

09, enero | Opinión Finca Loranque | 18 Comentarios
El respeto al ‘terroir’ y a las tradiciones de valor añadido

Hace unos días, una de las publicaciones internacionales más conocidas dedicadas al vino, ‘Wine Spectator’ publicaba un amplio reportaje dedicado a uno de los ‘matrimonios’ de enólogos más prestigiosos del mundo: Telmo Rodríguez y Pablo Eguzkiza.

En el artículo se cuenta una anécdota, ocurrida en una de las muchas parcelas de viña que miman como a hijos: “Las Beatas”. Ya hace un tiempo, Pablo Eguzkiza -que asesora en campo y bodega a Finca Loranque- nos invitó y acompañó a conocer esta viña, de apenas dos hectáreas, en un terreno imposible de terrazas estrechas y centenarias, donde sólo se puede trabajar con mulos.

Una pequeña parcela que sintetiza a la perfección la exitosa filosofía de este tándem de enólogos y su peculiar visión del mundo del vino. En este iniciático viaje, descubrimos con él -arropados por su entrega visceral hacia lo que disfruta- lo que significa el amor al terroir, a las variedades autóctonas, a la búsqueda y recuperación de las tradiciones de mayor valor para el vino.

En una mañana fresca y nublosa, nos impregnamos de palabras que ya sólo usan los viejos viticultores y que se resumen en el moderno palabro ‘biodinámica’; la retina se colmó de colores antiguos de erosión y de desperdigadas cuerdas de injertos; el aroma era una curiosa mezcla de raras plantas aromáticas que nacen salvajes y dejan su impronta en el suelo…

Las líneas escritas por Match Frank en ‘Wine Spectator’, desde el lejano Estados Unidos, resumen lo que aún hoy no sabemos valorar aquí en su justa medida: “España es probablemente el país más dinámico del vino en Europa en este momento, gracias a gente como Rodríguez y Eguzkiza, y una generación más joven que está siguiendo su ejemplo”.

Muchas gracias por transmitirnos tan bien ese amor por la calidad del buen vino que nace en la tierra, amigo.

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