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Las Denominaciones de Origen, ese tema…

05, febrero | General | 38 Comentarios
Denominaciones de Origen Vino

Las Denominaciones de Origen, ese tema. Sí, ese tema. En la definición de Denominación de Origen se describe que “los productores se comprometen a mantener la calidad del producto elaborado lo más alta posible, y algunas técnicas básicas de elaboración tradicionales”. Y yo, malintencionado, me pregunto… ¿Y esto se cumple en el vino? Y yo, descarado que soy, me contesto: pues va a ser que no.

Alguien, a estas alturas, cree, de verdad, que un vino bajo el burocrático paraguas de una DO tiene asegurada su calidad. Alguien, listos como somos, considera que un vino sin DO tiene menos calidad porque no paga la cuota. Yo tengo clara la respuesta y, como los lectores de este blog son ‘superinteligentes’, también.

Hace un tiempo, Rafa Tobar (@bodegaAteneo), se hacía eco de un estudio que afirmaba que “el factor de si un vino tiene DO es importante para un 74% de las decisiones sobre el consumo”. Rafa, que tiene el defecto de que analiza los datos, irónicamente, apostillaba que él añadiría una pregunta en la encuesta de la que se extrae este dato: “Si usted ha contestado que sí a la pregunta anterior y, excluyendo Ribera, Rioja o Rueda, dígame tres DD.OO. que le gusten”.  Y concluía diciendo que “sin duda, la respuesta sería un silencio solo equiparable al del desierto del Gobi”. ¡Y tenemos 69!

Las Denominaciones de Origen están viviendo un momento de discusión y análisis. Rectifico: algunas DD.OO. Lo siento, pero vuelvo a rectificar: sólo una, la de siempre. Porque en todas, a excepción de la ‘calificada’, parece que no se mueve nada, que no pasa el tiempo por ellas, que no se plantean una nueva definición de objetivos e intereses y, sobre todo, replantearse el camino para llegar a conseguirlos. Ni los golpes más duros hacen tambalear sus sólidas y anquilosadas raíces. Pero no se confundan, la que se mueve tampoco lo hace por asegurar la calidad de su vino, más bien por la diferenciación de su producción, que no es lo mismo ni se le parece.

Es cierto, y se dice como un mantra, que se consume menos vino en España -aunque hay ‘brotes verdes’-, pero de más calidad. Un hecho que aprovechan las DD.OO. para apuntarse este dato positivo, en el inmenso mar de lagrimas que es el consumo de vino en nuestro país. Pero es dudoso, porque lo que se aprecia es que el consumidor está dispuesto a gastarse un poco más de dinero en un mejor vino, no en lo que le propone una DO. Razones políticas y de otra mucha índole -que nada tienen que ver con la calidad y diferenciación de los suelos, la segmentaciones y categorizaciones adecuadas para poner en valor cada producto- han primado siempre en los Consejos Reguladores y en las decisiones que han dado como resultado la homogeneización de los vinos.

Sin embargo, los nuevos consumidores, cada vez más entendidos y preparados, con una relación con el vino completamente diferente a la de sus padres y sus abuelos, preguntan por variedades, suelos, maderas, enólogos, estilos, visitan bodegas y zonas vitivinícolas. Pero igual que estamos rezando un réquiem por los vinos de ‘comida, merienda y cena’, los vinos más baratos y con menos personalidad irán al rincón de los olvidados poco a poco. Pero esto que cuento es muy lento, muy minoritario.

Quin Vila decía hace poco a un medio de comunicación que “España no puede ser sinónimo de vino barato y bueno”. Y las DD.OO tienen en su mano que esto pase de un deseo compartido por muchos, a una realidad constatada por todos. Todos tenemos responsabilidad en ello, pero las Denominaciones son un buen pilar desde el que comenzar esta revolución necesaria, con campañas de marketing diferente, contando con personas que atraigan al mundo del vino, no que expulsen a nuevos consumidores. Y, sobre todo, velando de verdad por esa calidad que les une e identifica. 

Publicado en: Rueda la Bola (Lorenzo Ginés)

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